Lawn Care FAQ: Mowing, Fertilizing, Watering and More
These are the lawn questions homeowners and lawn care companies ask most often, answered from university extension research. The right schedule depends on whether a lawn is cool-season grass (such as Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue) or warm-season grass (such as bermudagrass, zoysia or St. Augustine), and on your local climate. When in doubt, check with your state's extension service.
On this page
- How often should I mow my lawn?
- How high should I cut my grass?
- Should I bag my grass clippings?
- When should I fertilize my lawn?
- How much should I water my lawn?
- When should I put down crabgrass preventer?
- When is the best time to aerate a lawn?
- When should I overseed my lawn?
- Do I need a soil test before fertilizing?
- Do lawn care companies need a license to apply pesticides?
- How should a lawn care company schedule recurring routes?
- How should I price lawn care services?
How often should I mow my lawn?
Mow as often as the grass needs so you never remove more than one third of the blade at a time. That one-third rule, from University of Illinois Extension, matters more than a fixed calendar. In spring, when growth is fastest, that can mean more than once a week, and less often when growth slows. Avoid mowing wet grass.
How high should I cut my grass?
For most lawns, 2.5 to 3 inches is a good mowing height. University of Illinois Extension notes that lawns mowed higher tend to have deeper roots and fewer weed problems. The right height depends on grass type, with recommendations ranging from about 1 to 3.5 inches across species, so check the guidance for your grass and region. Keep mower blades sharp, since a dull blade tears grass and invites disease.
Should I bag my grass clippings?
No, leaving clippings on the lawn is usually better. Clippings are about 75 to 80 percent water, break down quickly, and return nitrogen to the soil, which reduces how much fertilizer you need. University of Illinois Extension notes that clippings do not cause thatch, especially when you follow the one-third rule.
When should I fertilize my lawn?
It depends on your grass type: cool-season lawns are fed mainly in late summer and fall, while warm-season lawns are fed once they are actively growing in late spring and summer. For example, University of Minnesota Extension recommends cool-season lawns in Minnesota be fertilized in August, September and May to June, with an early October application for higher maintenance lawns. For warm-season grasses, Clemson Extension suggests waiting until nighttime temperatures are around 70 degrees Fahrenheit, because fertilizing too early pushes top growth at the expense of roots. Exact timing and rates vary by region and grass species, so follow your local extension's calendar.
Source: University of Minnesota Extension: Fertilizing Lawns; Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC: When Should You Fertilize Your Lawn?
How much should I water my lawn?
Most lawns need about one inch of water a week, counting both rain and irrigation. Clemson Extension recommends deep, infrequent watering in the early morning, because it builds deeper roots and frequent shallow watering encourages weeds and disease. How you split the inch depends on soil: clay can take it in one watering, while sandy soils do better with smaller amounts two or three times a week. Measure with rain gauges or tuna cans placed around the yard.
Source: Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC: How Often Should a Lawn Be Watered?
When should I put down crabgrass preventer?
Apply a preemergent herbicide before crabgrass germinates, which happens when soil temperature averages about 55 degrees Fahrenheit for three or four days in a row. That threshold comes from NC State Extension. The calendar date for that soil temperature varies a lot by region and by year, so watch local soil temperatures rather than relying on a fixed date.
Source: NC State Extension TurfFiles: When to Apply Preemergent Herbicides for Turfgrasses
When is the best time to aerate a lawn?
Aerate cool-season grasses in fall and warm-season grasses in late spring or early summer. Clemson recommends this timing so the grass is actively growing and can recover quickly. Core aeration removes small plugs of soil, which lets air and water reach the roots, and it works better than spike aeration.
Source: Clemson News: Healthy Lawns in South Carolina, Why Aeration Matters
When should I overseed my lawn?
For cool-season lawns, late summer to early fall is usually the best time to overseed. Iowa State University Extension identifies mid-August through mid-September as the best window in its region, because warm soil speeds germination, cool nights favor growth, and fewer weeds compete. Good seed to soil contact through core aeration, vertical mowing or slit seeding is essential, and the seedbed needs to stay moist. Warm-season lawns follow a different calendar, so check your local extension service.
Do I need a soil test before fertilizing?
A soil test is the best way to know what your lawn actually needs. University of Minnesota Extension recommends testing to find out whether a lawn lacks nutrients or already has too much, and advises applying phosphorus only if a soil test shows a need. Many state extension services offer soil testing.
Source: University of Minnesota Extension: Fertilizing Lawns
Do lawn care companies need a license to apply pesticides?
Anyone who applies or supervises the application of restricted use pesticides must be certified under federal law. States, tribes and some federal agencies run the certification programs, commercial applicators are those who apply pesticides for pay, and certified applicators must recertify at least every five years under EPA's standards. Your state may have additional licensing or business requirements for commercial lawn applications, so check with your state pesticide regulatory agency before offering weed or insect control.
Source: EPA: Certification Standards for Pesticide Applicators
How should a lawn care company schedule recurring routes?
Build routes around geography first, then service frequency. Group weekly and biweekly customers by neighborhood so crews work in tight clusters, and keep each customer on the same day so they know when to expect you. Leave buffer time for rain delays and plan a make-up day each week. Recheck routes each season, since growth rates and services change between spring, summer and fall.
How should I price lawn care services?
Price from your real cost per visit: crew time on site, drive time, equipment, materials and overhead, plus your target margin. Measure each property rather than guessing, and account for obstacles, slopes and trimming that add time. Pricing varies by market, property size and service mix, so build your numbers from your own crew's production rates and revisit them every season.
General information, not professional advice for a specific property or job. Codes, licensing and product requirements vary by state, city and manufacturer, so check your local authority and the product's own data sheet. Pricing varies by market and job, which is why this page gives none.
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